Thursday, December 29, 2011
Review: Wargaming on a Budget
Let's start with some particulars: This is a small format book (digest or A5 sized) of about 165 pages. Chapters are included on Resources (5 pp), Basic DIY (8 pp), Making a Table (11 pp), The Playing Surface (9 pp), Figures (20 pp), Terrain (18 pp), Man-Made Features (32 pp), Ships and Planes (11 pp), Storage and Transportation (11 pp), and The Game (37 pp). The book is available in the US for 30 dollars and in the UK for 15 pounds.
Mr. Dickie's sense of humor is very apparent in the book. Interspersed with practical suggestions (e.g. collect twigs or hedge clippings for various purposes) are samples such as this (on the subject of proper precautions to be taken when going outside): "Before you do this I want to offer some much-needed safety advice. Gardens are dangerous places and as soon as the Health and Safety Executive catches on they will be closed down, I'm sure. There are plants that will sting you or stab you; insects that will bite, poison or sting you too; slimy things that will make you slip up and birds that crap on you. You should wear stout industrial boots, water and poo-proof clothes, gloves, and protection for your head. Full NBC kit should do quite nicely." This should give you an idea of what you will be in for as a reader; personally, I find that a very little of this goes a long way, and I found it irritating for page after page.
The chapters on DIY, tables, and storage in particular, and portions of the material on man-made scenery are heavy on woodworking instructions. This appears to be thorough, although it would benefit from a few more diagrams. However, I don't have easy access to table saws and other power tools that would be necessary for what amounts to large scale furniture construction, so I can only make limited use of it.
The sections on scenery are also thorough. There wasn't much in the terrain features that I wasn't already considering, or which isn't already covered by other books in my collection, such as the Games Workshop scenery books, but there was an interesting section on the rationale behind ancient and medieval farm, village and town planning and evolution that isn't intuitive to a North American reader such as myself, living in an area where a building over 50 years old is practically ancient. I can see some of that being incorporated into work to be done on the medieval skirmish project in the next few months.
The chapter on games had some discussion of maximizing the utility of your figures by careful choice of projects so that things can be made to do double duty (e.g., unshieded men in tunics armed with javelins can serve in numerous ancient armies), and some basic thoughts on games that can be played with limited numbers of figures (gladiators, raids and skirmishes, etc.) This last is the only thing in the books that seems to justify the subtitle about gaming in small spaces.
On my second read, then, my impression is that there isn't much in this book that is new or innovative. What there is is generally going to be of more use to someone fairly new to the hobby, who won't have run across all these ideas before. It's not a bad book, even if the humor grates on me, but, for me, it was expensive for what I got out of it, which is not a high recommendation for a book on making the most of a limited budget.
Wednesday, December 28, 2011
Lunch Project
Tuesday, December 27, 2011
Thoughts at the New Year
Following a suggestion by Hal Thinglum in MWAN many years ago, I have kept track of my painting completions fairly regularly now for the past 15 years. I haven't bothered adding up the results the last few years, as the numbers are so much lower than they were ten years ago. In the first few years after that, I drew up lists of the top five projects that I intended to work on in the coming year. More recently, I've listed the top three at the beginning of the year...but have then gone on to paint whatever I felt like that day without any consideration of the January 'plan'. In fact, I just advised my sons this week to paint what they felt like painting, since to do otherwise starts to feel more like work than like fun. At least they have been working quickly enough lately that such an approach would still lead to new projects appearing on the table in a reasonable amount of time.
I'm currently thinking that I should spend more time painting with other people, and having two painting sons at home should make that fairly easy. Certainly the fact of collaboration was instrumental in driving the fortress project toward completion this year. The other thing that has been successful in moving projects forward has been the formal challenge of some sort. The Medieval Mayhem skirmish project started as a challenge to create a convention game with a $100 budget limit. We've tossed around the idea of issuing a challenge for creation of a convention game that would fit in a plastic shoe box, which would be ideal for a convention that involved air travel using only carry-on baggage.
If I follow the whim of the moment in doing what seems interesting, it seems likely that this coming year is going to be a mix of 54mm medievals (which I was working on yesterday, which the kids have been working on, and which I'm committed to running at Cold Wars) and 40mm Renaissance, which Ross and I intend to run at our next meeting. Beyond that, the kids are working away diligently on 1/72 scale Hordes of the Things, my Herodotus project has been the focus of much reading, and I have some Bronze Age miniatures in two scales on the desk.
Sunday, December 25, 2011
I'm dreaming of a White ... Company
Miniatures at the Dean house have been somewhat disrupted these past two months as our game table has been dismantled (temporarily) while workers stowed our laundry equipment in the war room while the utility room has been remodeled. We finally got the washer and dryer out of the war room on Friday, so I am hoping to see some gaming in the near future.
In the meantime, I have signed up to run a couple of Medieval Mayhem skirmish games at Cold Wars in a few months, and have devoted some of my limited painting time to trying to add some figures to that. My son Norman, though, has already done me one better, by painting these character figures of Sir Nigel and Alleyne Edricson from The White Company for me for Christmas.
Thanks!
Monday, October 31, 2011
Rules Update, Musket Mayhem
Musket Mayhem
Draft 21 October 2011
By Rob Dean and Ross Macfarlane
Organization
These rules are intended for use with small numbers of individually mounted horse and musket era miniatures. If multiple players are involved, they will ordinarily be divided into two sides. Each player will ordinarily command a number of figures—including one or more leaders--- and will designate one leader to serve as his personal figure and commander of the contingent.
Sequence
Players (sides) dice for initiative each turn. Winner chooses to go first or second. If there is a tie, repeat the previous turn's sequence. While a player is active, he resolves movement group by group, and then resolves all hand-to-hand combat figure by figure. The inactive player shoots at any point during the active player's move. In the event that multiple sides are required, activation will be by card draw from a deck with one card per player. Inactive players may shoot at targets belonging to the active player during the active player's turn.
Movement
Movement may be by individual or by group. If as a group, roll once for the whole group. Individuals or smaller groups breaking off a larger group move at the group's rate during that turn. A group consists of figures separated by up to 1" between adjacent figures. Groups are defined by their position on the game table; figures must be kept separated if it is not intended for them to operate as a group. Groups generally wheel; figures individuals may generally turn as needed during movement. Figures moving to contact the enemy must move to contact the nearest edge; i.e., must start to flank or rear to end in superior attack position.
To determine distance roll dice as follows:
3d6": If moving as an individual
2d6": If movement begins as a group or the intention is declared to join a group or Indians or frontiersmen etc. in woods. (Most animals, wagons, etc.)
1d6": If crossing an obstacle, going through a doorway, moving through woods or other delaying terrain, rearranging a group or falling back out of combat facing the enemy. (Pushing a gun, with at least a minimum crew.)
+2d6" if mounted in the open.
+1d6 bonus for specially designated heroes, etc. (Optional)
Missile Fire
Fire is by individual. Each figure armed with a loaded missile weapon may shoot once at any point during the enemy's movement at a target within the weapon's range. A gunpowder weapon becomes unloaded (mark with a smoke puff or other agreed upon marker) and can be reloaded as an action by a figure which does not move during its own turn. The target does not have to be moving, but must be within a zone 45 degrees to either side of the front facing of the firing figure. (Figures on square bases may conveniently check this by using the diagonal lines of the base.) Figures may not shoot if they are in hand-to-hand contact with an enemy figure. They may not shoot over another figure (defined as any part of the figure's base) or through obstructions such as buildings. Roll a skill die for a potential hit on the target. If a potential hit is achieved, roll a results die for effect:
Skill Die (-1 if over half range, -1 if firing while mounted)
4-6 Target in the open checks impact
5-6 Target in soft cover (tree, fence, etc.) check impact
6 Target in hard cover (rock, stockade or building loophole, etc.) checks impact
Impact Die (+1 for muskets and rifles, +2 for canister, +3 for roundshot)
6 Target killed (see optional rules)
1-5 Target takes courage check
Weapons
Pistol 12" (was 6")
Musket/Bow 24" (was 18")
Rifle 36"
Artillery:
Canister: 36" (= rifle range) roll against all figures in a cone 45 degrees needing usual score to hit. (Lay out the template aligned with the barrel of the gun).
Roundshot: 72" lay down yardstick(s). Roll against all figures along flight path needing usual score. Heavier gun could knock down cover maybe?
Reloading. When gun fires, place 3 smoke puffs. A trained crew of 3 or more (with a leader counting as two figures) may remove 1 per turn.
Morale/Courage Checks
Basic Courage values are:
5: exceptional leaders
4: ordinary leaders
3: ordinary soldiers and other combatants
2: Women and other non-combatants
A group or individual must check courage if one of the following events
occurs:
1. A figure in a group is killed (only once per turn).
2. A group is ordered to charge. (Any move to contact the enemy is a charge.)
3. A group has been charged. (All figures within potential charge range must check)
4. A figure has taken a missile hit without being killed (individual check, but taken at the group rate).
5. If a company or warband's leader killed.
A check caused by a casualty or fire is taken at the end of the group's movement or combat as appropriate. A check for being ordered to charge is taken immediately before attempting to move the figures, and a check for being charged is taken as soon as the charger has successfully checked. Note that all groups or figures with the lines defined by the ends of the bases in a charging group, and within possible charge range, must check courage. (See diagram.) Groups charged by more than one group check only once, after all attackers have rolled and it is established that at least one will actually charge. For the death of a commander, all individuals and groups in the contingent must check at the end of the movement or combat phase in which the commander was killed.
Roll one die vs. the highest courage value in the group (individuals being a group of one). If the die is equal to or less than the courage value then the group passes. If the score is higher then courage has failed. If the group was ordered to charge then they stand still instead. In the other four possible tests, roll again against each individual's courage. If they roll higher than their courage, they run off the board and are removed. Otherwise they retreat 2d6" (or to the nearest cover if closer and as a result of enemy fire). Note that group checks are based on the situation on the ground at the time of the check. If casualties have cut a group apart, all resulting groups and individuals must check morale as they stand. Players may find a second rank helpful to keep groups together.
Melee
For each pair of combatants in contact, each player rolls a skill die, adds any applicable modifiers, and compares it to the skill die of the opponent. The high scorer has a hit against the enemy, and a roll for results is made. If the score is tied, then neither figure is affected. Figures are in contact if any part of their front edge is contacting an enemy figure, or if they are contacted by any part of the front edge of an enemy figure. The player whose turn it is decides the order in which combats are fought. All combats for one figure must be resolved before resolving combats for another figure. If a figure fighting several opponents is killed, combat ends for that figure immediately and any combats not yet fought are cancelled.
Modifiers to the skill die:
+1 if leader
+1 if defending an obstacle or in some other superior position (e.g. up hill, at a stream bank, mounted)
+2 if attacking from the rear or side.
+1 if 'shock troops' eager to close and melee (NB: The intent of this is to give a bonus to troops such as trained cavalry, Highlanders with claymores, or NWF swordsmen who can be expected to close to melee with the intent to use their weapons; but might apply to other troops, such as grenadiers or Indians, depending on the needs of the scenario.)
+1 for troops armed with bayonets against opponents with shorter weapons such as tomahawks
Melee Results
If a hit is scored, the results die is compared to the armament of the attacking figure. If the results value is equal to or higher than the armament value, the target figure is removed from the game. If not, the losing figure checks courage as in fire combat.
The armament values are as follows:
6: unarmed or knife alone
5: most weapons: e.g., bayonets, tomahawks, war clubs, musket butts, etc.
4: melee specialists such as trained cavalry with sword, etc.
Miscellaneous Rules
Stockade walls: Figures attempting to climb a stockade wall may do so if there is a clear space at least one base width to either side of the figure with no defenders. Roll one die. On a 6 the figure is placed on the other side of the wall and may fight normally on subsequent turns.
Fire: Figures carrying incendiary materials must be marked, and may not shoot or charge. Each such figure adjacent to a building or stockade wall section may set it afire on a roll of 6. For simplicity, any fire successfully set will burn for the remainder of the game, and is treated as an impassible area blocking visibility.
Search: The basic search rule is that the player rolls against the figure's search value and the referee roles against the search difficulty. If both rolls are successful, the player is given the necessary information; otherwise the player is told that he doesn't find anything. Typical figures would have a search value of 6, better figures a 5, and superior a 4. Positively identifying the Pimpernel would be a difficulty of 6, a deserter perhaps a 5, and a barrel as little as a 2, though identifying the contents of an unopened barrel might be harder.
Skills: If a scenario would require some other specific skill, an individual can be assigned a skill rating of 4-6, representing the minimum number to be rolled on a d6 to successfully use the skill.
Post-battle results: If important to a scenario, note that a distinction can be made between figures which run from the table and those downed by enemy action. After the battle, downed figures can be diced for, and are wounded on a d6 roll of 1-4 and dead on a roll of 5-6.
Heroes: Depending on the scenario, heroes could be represented by some combination of save tokens (canceling a death or morale failure), reroll tokens, or bonuses to skill or impact dice with specific weapons. (Hawkeye, for example, could be given a +2 to hit and a +1 to impact while using Killdeer, plus a couple of save tokens, where Uncas might get a + 1 to skill and impact in melee with a single save token...)
Philosophy
These rules are intended to provide a quick simple game and cannot cover all contingencies. Use common sense or roll dice to resolve situations not covered here. It is hoped that most players will be able to remember the necessary numbers involved in the game after fairly brief exposure, and not need to refer to the written rules during play. The rules are set up so that it is not necessary to remember any "continuing results" for one turn to the next, so that the situation can always be read directly from the table. The writers of these rules firmly believe that the best games result when the players are able to concentrate on the decisions rather than the rules. A version of these rules, Medieval Mayhem, covering knights and so forth, is also available.
Revision notes 10/21/11: added hero rule draft; post-battle results 10/24: Working on charge definition, clarifying melee bonuses.
Rules Update, Medieval Mayhem
Here are some modifications to Medieval Mayhem:
Medieval Mayhem
By Rob Dean and Ross Macfarlane
Draft revisions 25 October 2011
Organization
These rules are intended for use with small numbers of individually mounted medieval miniatures. If multiple players are involved, they will ordinarily be divided into two sides. Each player will ordinarily command a group of knights and sergeants--a contingent--and will designate one knight to serve as his personal figure and commander of the contingent.
Sequence
Players (sides) dice for initiative each turn. Winner chooses to go first or second. If there is a tie, repeat the previous turn's sequence. While a player is active, he resolves movement group by group, and then resolves all hand-to-hand combat figure by figure. The inactive player shoots bows and crossbows at any point during the active player's move.
Movement
Movement may be by individual or by group. If as a group, roll once for the whole group. Individuals or smaller groups breaking off a larger group move at the group's rate during that turn. A group consists of any figures whose bases are within 1" of each other.
To determine distance roll dice as follows:
3d6": If moving as an individual
2d6": If movement begins as a group or the intention is declared to join a group. (Groups may only move straight ahead or wheel at this rate—anything else is a 1d6 move.)
1d6": If crossing an obstacle, going through a doorway, moving through woods or other delaying terrain, rearranging a group or falling back out of combat facing the enemy.
+1d6" if mounted
Missile Fire
Fire is by individual. Each figure armed with a bow or crossbow may shoot once at any point during the enemy's movement at a target up to 18" away. A figure armed with a javelin may throw at a target up to 6" away. The target does not have to be moving, but must be within a zone 45 degrees to either side of the front facing of the firing figure. (Figures on square bases may conveniently check this by using the diagonal lines of the base. Note that mounted archers may be included in appropriate scenarios and would be able to fire all around.) Figures may not shoot if they are in hand-to-hand contact with an enemy figure. They may not shoot over another figure (defined as any part of the figure's base) or through obstructions such as buildings. Roll 1 die to hit needing:
5 or 6 vs. a target in the open.
6 vs. a target behind cover.
If a hit is scored roll 1 impact die and compare to the target's armor score.
Optional rules for massed bowmen: Bowmen only, not crossbows or javelins, may fire in multiple ranks, over the bases of troops in their own group. Targets must be in the open, within range of the shooter, and are hit on a roll of 6.
Optional rule for artillery: If needed for a specific scenario, such as a siege, artillery, whether a catapult or a bombard, would have a range 36", and a minimum crew of three to reload, which occurs during the opponent's turn in lieu of firing. Mark a loaded engine with a small stone. Engines already loaded at the beginning of the opponent's turn may fire. Roll 1 die as usual to hit, with a +2 to Impact against individuals. An impact value of 5 or better vs a door or engine breaks it.
Morale
Courage values:
5: knights
4: veteran sergeants
3: common sergeants and archers
2: non-combatants
A group or individual must check morale if one of the following events
occurs:
1. A figure in a group is killed (only once per turn).
2. A group or figure is ordered to charge. (Any move to contact the enemy is a charge.)
3. A group or figure has been charged.
4. If a contingent's commander is killed.
A check caused by a casualty is taken at the end of the group's movement or combat as appropriate. A check for being ordered to charge is taken immediately before attempting to move the figures, and a check for being charged is taken as soon as the charger has successfully checked. (Note that all figures within range and straight ahead--i.e. 12" for foot and within a zone marked by the extension of lines of the left and right edges of the bases of the chargers--of a charging group must check morale.) For the death of a commander, all individuals and groups in the contingent must check at the end of the movement or combat phase in which the commander was killed.
Roll one die vs. the highest courage value in the group (individuals being a group of one). If the die is equal to or less than the courage value then the group passes. If the score is higher then courage is failed. If the group was ordered to charge then they stand still instead. In the other three possible tests, roll again against each individual's courage. If they roll higher than their courage, they run off the board and are removed. Otherwise they retreat 2d6". Note that group checks are based on the situation on the ground at the time of the check. If casualties have cut a group apart, all resulting groups and individuals must check morale as they stand. Players may find a second rank helpful to keep groups together.
Optional rule for pike block, schiltron, etc: a group of at least 8 pikes or spears can form a hedgehog facing outward in all directions, and receive a +1 bonus to their courage value.
Melee
For each pair of combatants in contact, each player rolls a skill die and compares it to the skill die of the opponent. If the score is higher then a hit has been scored against that enemy. Roll again for impact. Figures are in contact if any part of their front edge is contacting an enemy figure, or if they are contacted by any part of the front edge of an enemy figure. The player whose turn it is decides the order in which combats are fought. All combats for one figure must be resolved before resolving combats for another figure. If a figure fighting several opponents is killed, combat ends for that figure immediately and any combats not yet fought are cancelled.
Modifiers to the skill die:
+1 Knight fighting to the front
+1 If defending an obstacle or in some other superior position (e.g. up hill, at a stream bank, mounted)
+2 Attacking from the rear or side.
Combat Results/Impact
If a hit is scored, the impact die is compared to the armor of the defending figure. If the impact value is equal to or higher than the armor value, the figure is removed from the game.
The armor values are as follows:
6: heavy armor with shield
5: heavy armor alone; medium armor with shield
4: medium armor alone; light armor with shield
3: light armor alone; shield alone
2: unprotected
Shields only count to the front and left side.
Modifiers to Impact
+1 if impact is by 2 handed weapon (axe, halberd, etc.)
+1 to impact of lance on horseback on first turn of melee
Miscellaneous
Dice: All dice used in this game are standard six-sided dice. Double dice are usually used for combat, with the outer die being read as the "skill" die and the inner die being read as the "impact" die. Alternatively, use of two dice would also speed play, and a convention of using a white die for skill and a colored die for impact is suggested.
Post-battle results: If important to a scenario, note that a distinction can be made between figures which run from the table and those downed by enemy action. After the battle, downed figures can be diced for, and are wounded on a d6 roll of 1-4 and dead on a roll of 5-6. Captured knights, in particular, were valuable for ransom.
Heroes: Depending on the scenario, heroes could be represented by some combination of save tokens (canceling a death or morale failure), reroll tokens, or bonuses to skill or impact dice with specific weapons. (Sir Nigel, for example, could be given a +2 skill bonus in lieu of the usual +1 for knight and three save tokens, where Samkin Aylward might get a + 1 to skill and impact with a bow, as well as a single save token...)
Armor definitions: These rules were originally written for use with individually mounted 54mm figures on 40mm square bases. The figures used were Accurate Hundred Years War plastic figures, which did not include any figures without at least some minimal armor. Heavy armor was considered to cover knights in plate armor with closed helmets. Medium armor was defined as including arm and leg protection. Light armor is other chain, padded or leather armor not including arm or leg protection.
Horses: Mounted troops are ordinarily treated like the foot figures with a movement and combat advantage, but horses may be targeted separately if figures are available to represent riders who become dismounted. In this case, a figure who succeeds in striking a mounted figure may choose to strike either the horse or the rider, with a barded horse counting as heavy armor, a cloth caparisoned horse as medium armor, and an unarmored horse as light armor. If the horse is killed the rider must make a morale check and is replaced by the appropriate dismounted figure if he remains on the table.
Philosophy
These rules are intended to provide a quick simple game and cannot cover all contingencies. While originally designed for use with Hundred Years War figures, suggestions have been added for dealing with other ancient and medieval situations. Use common sense or roll dice to resolve situations not covered here. It is hoped that most players will be able to remember the necessary numbers involved in the game after fairly brief exposure, and not need to refer to the written rules during play. The rules are set up so that it is not necessary to remember any "continuing results" for one turn to the next, so that the situation can always be read directly from the table. The writers of these rules firmly believe that the best games result when the players are able to concentrate on the decisions rather than the rules.
Notes on revision: expanded group definition; clarified charge response procedures; expanded courage values; post-battle result; heroes; added javelins, massed bow, artillery and schiltron options.
Friday, October 14, 2011
Springblossom Guards
Tuesday, October 11, 2011
Limited Progress
I was feeling enough better today that I at least spent some time at the workbench, cleaning and priming some 54mm medieval civilians received in the Irregular packet, putting a wash coat on some 54mm Greeks, and painting a couple of Hordes of the Things bases of Caesar Elves, in response to some pointed suggestions from my industrious offspring, whose recent work can be viewed on Junkyard Planet.
Tomorrow it's back to work, so it will likely be Thursday at the earliest before I can get some pictures posted...
Wednesday, October 5, 2011
Roots
While waiting on this game to develop, I decided it was time to have a look at my bookshelves, for some inspirational gaming reading. I ended up with War Games (my copy is a 1973 printing). It's always interesting to look back at our hobby roots, and I find it interesting to see how much of the structure of the way we do things today was already in place in the early days.
War Games provided the model for later books, it appears, with nine chapters starting with an overivew and then covering troops, terrain, maps and campaigns, scenario design, ancients rules, horse and musket rules, modern (i.e. WWII) rules, and solo wargaming. The troop section discusses casting and mold-making, which is probably a little more Old School than most newcomers would be comfortable with today, but which may lead me to my next workbench project: recasting a conversion of Meisterzinn Renaissance trumpeter into a pikeman. The mold-making practice in plaster will probably transfer to RTV, and that'll give me a chance to test things out inexpensively.
Saturday, September 24, 2011
16th Century English Demilancer from Meisterzinn Molds
False Starts--1/72 scale Landsknecht
When Orion released the first box of Landsknechts (doppelsoldners and arquebusiers) some years ago, I was already working on the 40mm Renaissance project shown here previously. My 40s were already mounted on group bases for larger scale battles, so I thought that it might be fun to paint up a few individuals for a skirmish game.
I got as far as assembling the figures and priming them, but then foundered on the realization that my speed at scenery building meant that I would never get this game on the table. I only ever finished this one figure, just to show that I could.
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Thoughts after an evacuation
I have been keeping track of games played for some years now, which makes it possible to note that I have several projects which haven't been on the table in more than five years. I also have considerable stock of materials for projects which must be considered 'false starts' and which are unlikely to ever reach gaming level, as well as overrun for projects which don't really seem to need any additional work. For those latter items, I think the rational plan is to take one final stab at finishing them, and then sell anything remaining uncompleted.
Perhaps that will free up some mental energy as well as space in the war room...
Thursday, September 8, 2011
Evacuation Drill
Unfortunately, however, the succession of tropical storms has left our river well on it's way to its second highest (they estimate) flood on record. We were rousted out of bed this morning by sirens and speaker trucks announcing an emergency evacuation, so it's somewhat uncertain as to when we might be home and what condition we might find it in. We had hoped for several additional hours of orderly preparation, so Norman and I had started by setting aside the Hittites and Egyptians as being light and suitable for a small table game. When the evacuation order came by surprise, they still ended up going with us, and we also grabbed 6mm Hordes, so it could be that's what we restart with. I hope that most of the armies, though, will be safe on the second floor. It could be another long weekend...perhaps it really is time for a more portable approach to this hobby.
-- Mobilis in mobile
Saturday, September 3, 2011
Hasty Hordes Army
Army overview |
Blades stand from Sheriff of Nottingham figures |
Friar Tuck as, what else, a cleric |
The flag is somewhat the worse for years of wear, but this should be the general stand |
A rider or knight stand |
Shooters, with warband or hordes in the background |
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
Waiting Games
Ironically, my house was tight and dry throughout, and the storm winds pushed the water down the river and bay away from us, so all was well at home. We spent an uncomfortable night in the dark without power, though, bailing out the basement at our refuge.
Anticipating that we might have some slack time while awaiting developments, we had added the 6mm Hordes of the Things/DBA box to our evacuation package. As it turned out, we did have time (while watching the stew on the camping stove) on Sunday to play a few games of Hordes. Here an element of my 6mm Irregular elven archers hides in a convenient forest, awaiting the Orcish army.
Wednesday, August 24, 2011
Interlude
I was given a few Meisterzinn 40mm semiflat Renaissance molds today, by a work colleague, which may see use as soon as next weekend...I'm still pending a discussion with Ross about next year's concentration on the 16th Century for convention games.
I have a feeling that trying to do less would result in more things actually being finished ....
Friday, August 5, 2011
Reinforcements
Saturday, July 30, 2011
Aquatic Adventures
Thursday, July 28, 2011
A Break from Wargames
(I'm just playing around a little with skater images; this isn't my son, who isn't scheduled to skate until later today.)
Saturday, July 16, 2011
Historicon 2011 AAR-- Photo Gallery
Long time HAWK Buck Surdu was inducted into the HMGS Legion of Honor, and we had time before the Iron Paintbrush to attend the ceremony.
The defenders of the siege's rear area driving off the advance guard of the relief force in Game 5...
Scenes from the sieges interspersed with a few interesting sights ...
Matt Kirkhart's amazing homebuilt ancient game; last year Cunaxa, this year Megiddo. The rules were a modified Morschauser, but, alas, I didn't have time to play. |
The Northwest Frontier, in a version of history I don't seem to have encountered in school... |
William's Lego pulp game for kids |
William, in his first outing as a gamemaster |
The Freedonian mortar; Geoff's had this for ten years, and I think this was the first time we've actually had a reason to put it on the table |
Wachovians sortie |
Digging a battery, overseen by a Stanzbach-Anwatsch engineer officer in a brown coat |
View from the wall #1, far focus |
View from the wall #2, near focus |
Wiegenburgers man the ravelin...again and again |
Norman in a game |
Duncan's WWI 1914 table |
Buck Surdu's frog game |
The Lost Gun |
Complicated maneuvers are usually a bad idea in Charge |
Wachovian escorts shake into line ahead of the wagons |
The lost gun arrives on the table |
The Stanzbach-Anwatsch infantry |